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Keys to avoid lifting of the sculpted nail

The number one reason why nails end up lifting is because of inadequate preparation of the natural nail prior to sculpting. To prepare a nail correctly you must know that the composition of the nail plate includes a high percentage of water and natural fat that interfere with adhesion.

  • Start with the mechanical phase, i.e. the phase that we work on manually.
    Disinfect and remove dirt residues with an acetone-free nail polish remover, cleaning the surface of each of your nails, to remove any contaminating agent.
  • Gently push back the cuticle, which is stuck to the nail surface without applying products containing grease or oils.
    This layer must be removed very carefully, with a metal pusher. Many experts agree that many hours of valuable time are lost in making repairs because the cuticle has been improperly removed. This happens because any skin that is left on the nail is trapped between the natural nail and the product, preventing its removal and thus causing the nail to peel off. This step is the most important to avoid product lifting.
  • Then polish the surface of the natural nail.
    Do not use a coarser grit than 180. Strong abrasives tend to scratch the surface of the nail, weakening the natural nail and the formation of the sculpting.
    Pay special attention to the sides and cuticle area when preparing the nail and don’t be afraid to push the skin back.
    This area is the big forgotten area and where the nail usually starts to lift. Some technicians use a cuticle or conical bur on their lathes to easily clean the cuticle area, removing dead tissue from the nail plate and lightly scraping the surface (to open the pore for better adhesion of the product). After filing, remove all dust and debris with a disinfected or special brush to clean particulate debris. Do not do it with your fingers.
  • Next we will go to the chemical phase, in this we apply laboratory products (chemical products), first we will eliminate the excess of water with a layer of artificial nail preparer, this will dehydrate the nail.
  • After the chemical degreasing, we can apply bonder or primer, my advice is that if you have a greasy nail apply primer because it contains acid and it will help us to adhere better the product in this type of nails. Now you can start sculpting, this preparation will be done in both techniques, gel and acrylic.

Highlights:

Control “overflows”: Do not allow the product to drip onto the client’s skin.
The product does not stick to the skin, so an overflow in the cuticle or lateral area will cause the nail to lift. Leave a thin margin of a few millimeters around the cuticle and sides. Leaving this space between the cuticle and the free edge will give you enough room to work between the two and file the coating completely, until it is thin and aligned in the area where it meets the natural nail.

My last recommendation:
Prepare one coat and apply the product. Then do the same job on the other hand. It is important because sometimes the client, with the prepared hand, tends to touch his face, scratch his head or talk on his cell phone, throwing away all your preparation work.